Foraging in September

I love this time of year. Admittedly it's sad to wave goodbye to the sunshine and warmth of long summer days but turning to autumn brings bonuses for the forager, particularly so here in Kent where every bush and tree is laden with an abundance of hedgerow fruits ripe for the harvesting. So much so, in fact, that it can be quite a task making the very best of it all and even if you're a big fan of the stuff, there is only so much jam that a family can eat! Fortunately though, there are a few other creative ways to use up some of the commoner hedgerow fruits that you're likely to find on your rambles and if you're thinking of being really green this coming Christmas by creating your own food hampers for presents, then these carefully bottled goodies can make unusual and rather special gourmet gifts.

Take the elderberry, for example. Most people know that it makes a wonderful richly red hedgerow wine, but a far speedier and simpler winter treat would be to use some to make elderberry schnapps. This easy recipe will give you a deep purple, warming winter tipple that's full flavoured and fruity with hints of almond, vanilla and chocolate.

Elderberry schnapps

Pick approx 1lb of fresh, fully ripe black elderberries, removing all stems and rinsing them carefully, then spread them on a layer of kitchen towel to soak up any excess water. When dry, place the loose berries in a freezer for a week or so before you plan to use them. Freezing in this way is supposed to sweeten them (it's a trick many people also use on sloes).

Take a 1 litre Kilner jar and half fill it with the frozen berries, topping it up with clear unflavoured vodka at about 80 per cent proof, then seal the jar carefully. Leave the mixture to steep for approximately four weeks in a cool dark place, remembering to shake the jar and its contents and to taste the mixture occasionally (I do not add sugar, but you can do so to your own taste if you prefer). Once you're happy with the result, strain the infusion into a clean bottle or jar with a well-secured lid and allow your elderberry schnapps to mature for at least a further two months before serving. It makes a very pleasant aperitif.

You can also serve your schnapps with ice creams, desserts, cakes, and any kind of cheese or cheesecake, or try adding a little to chutneys, marmalades, teas, pies, cake fillings, sauces or any other dishes where you would normally use elderberries.

And let us not forget the humble blackberry. Jams, pies and crumbles are lovely but how about using some of your harvest to make this very special and flavoursome vinegar? Another taste of summer you can savour all year long, it can be used instead of plain red wine vinegar in dressings, gravies and sauces - or you could make an oriental-flavoured dipping sauce by mixing it with soy and some pounded garlic. With home-grown flavours like these, who needs to buy balsamic?!

Blackberry vinegar - spicy, sweet and fruity

2 cinnamon sticks
4 tsp whole cloves
4 tsp allspice berries
900g blackberries
600ml white vinegar
900g sugar

Take the spices and wrap them carefully in muslin, then put them into a pan with the sugar and vinegar. Keep the mixture on a low heat until all the sugar has dissolved, then bring up to a rolling boil and hold it there for 5 minutes before adding the washed blackberries and simmering for another 10 minutes or so. Then remove from the heat, cover and allow the liquid to cool.

Strain the liquid through a fine cloth and pour into clean, sterilised bottles. Seal and label, and store in a cool, dry, dark place. Makes approximately 1 litre.

I'm also a big fan of the rosehip and when they're still firm but have a good deep colour I like to gather as many as I can (making sure to leave plenty for the wildlife who rely on it as a winter food). Rosehips may be a bit tiresome to process but they're well worth the added effort as you will end up with a superb syrup or sauce which tastes truly fantastic when combined with some of your own home-made yogurt. A delicious combination for a vitamin packed breakfast!

Rosehip syrup

6 pints (3.5 litres) water
3lb (1.5kg) ripe, de-seeded rosehips
2lb (1kg) sugar

Wash, top/tail and de-seed the rosehips, then place them into the water over a high heat and bring it to a fast simmer, stirring continuously to prevent them sticking. Cook for 30 minutes until everything is well softened, then rub the mixture through a sieve - doing this will allow you to remove the skins but keep the rich thick pulp. Return this strained pulp to the cleaned pan, add the sugar and, keeping it over a low heat, allow the mix to reduce by about half before pouring into sterilised bottles. Seal, label and store in a cool dark place. Don't forget to pop the bottle into the fridge after you've opened it.

Finally, here's a rather special way to use that glut of bullace/damsons or wilding plums you might have found in your hedgerow. This recipe for 'hot' spiced plums will provide you with a flavoursome treat to serve at Christmas alongside those cold cuts, something just a little spicier than the usual chutney!

'Hot' spiced plums

3lb (1.5kg) bullace, damsons or plums
3 tsp whole cloves
1 stick cinnamon
2 cloves garlic per jar
1 chilli per jar
one and a half pints red wine vinegar
Half a pint of water
One and half pounds of brown sugar
2 tsp salt

Wash the fruits and lightly prick the skins with a darning needle. Pack them carefully into jars, adding a piece of cinnamon, some cloves, a chilli and two cloves of garlic to each jar. Put the vinegar, water, sugar and salt into a pan and bring to the boil. Simmer for 5-10 minutes, then take off the heat and allow the mix to cool very slightly before carefully pouring it over the fruit and spices (mind your hands!). Seal immediately, label the jars and store for at least eight weeks before opening so that all the flavours are fully blended.

Happy foraging!

Carol

photos (c) Carol Hunt 2009