Footsteps into Foraging

Wild food foraging appears to many as a mysterious and clandestine activity only for those brought up in the country or the hippy elite. Yet the truth is far from this: even the phrase ‘wild food foraging' hints at adventure and found treasures. Foraging wild food is a rediscovery of an intrinsic part of everyday life for many people throughout the world - it is reconnecting with the seasons, the land and our heritage.

Growing up in Bristol, my early foraging experiences of blackberry picking with my grandparents and nibbling on hawthorn leaves whilst on a scout camp were enough to sow a seed that has slowly developed into a passion for wild food. I'm looking forward to sharing my tried and tested recipes with you and will also be including recipes I hope to be trying in the upcoming months. Feel free to join me!

I'm not sure I have a favourite season... each one has its own special qualities and treats, but I do confess to a quiet excitement with the advent of spring, watching the dormant, sleepy landscape awakened by a welcome burst of life.

These days I live in Cornwall and am lucky enough to be wandering through gorgeous woodland and country lanes within seconds of leaving the front door.

Ramsons

In spring it seems that nature bombards our senses with vivid greens, chattering birds and garlic scented walks. The latter of these is down to ramsons (Allium ursinum). You can often smell ramsons before you see them but don't be put off, their taste is milder than the smell!

Found in damp woodlands and shady places, ramsons almost look like lush long blades of grass, with fairly narrow leaves tapering to a point. They come from a single green stem and in spring they develop star-like white flowers on a single stalk. It is important not to confuse these leaves with those of lily of the valley, and a simple test is to crush the leaves: ramsons will exude the smell of garlic.

All parts of the plant are edible and being a huge fan of the garlic/onion family of plants I tend to use ramsons rather a lot. If you do find their taste a little strong try leaving the chopped leaves exposed to the air for a while as they will then mellow.

Quick and easy ramson recipes

Ramson butter

Cream 75g of butter, add a large handful of chopped ramson leaves, season with salt and pepper and leave to firm up in the fridge. Gorgeous on mushrooms, potatoes or just spread on a nice chunk of bread!

The flowers and the leaves can be added to salads (I particularly like the way they can offset the slight bitterness in young dandelion leaves).

Nettle and ramson pesto

Another favourite in our household is nettle and ramson pesto... great with pasta, new potatoes or mixed with a little cream and used as a pouring sauce over veg.

• 3 big handfuls of young nettle shoots/nettle tops (blanched for 1-2 minutes in boiling water)
• 1 large handful of ramson leaves
• ½ glove of garlic, if you prefer a stronger garlic taste
• Handful of lightly toasted pine nuts
• Handful of grated parmesan
• Couple of squeezes of lemon juice
• Generous glug of olive oil
• Salt & pepper for seasoning

The preparation of pesto is straightforward but must be undertaken with care! The secret to good pesto is the texture and creating a puree should be avoided at all costs.

Traditionally made with a pestle and mortar, the leaves, nuts and garlic would be ground, followed by the cheese, followed by the oil. In a food processor the pulse option is the safest way to avoid a puree. Blend all of the ingredients together except the olive oil. Gradually add the oil until you get a consistency you are happy with. Pack into small jars and top up with a little oil if needed to cover the mixture. Store in the fridge and use within one month. It can be frozen if required.

The pesto, as well as being yummy, also includes another easily obtainable wild food, stinging nettles (Urtica dioica). There is still time to make use of this unfairly maligned weed before it becomes too tough and fibrous to eat - only use young shoots or the tips of the plants (gloves are a good idea!). Aside from being a beneficial plant for wildlife and the basis of an excellent tonic for plants, and having medicinal properties, the stinging nettle can be used in cooking much like spinach. It also forms a great basis for soup.

Stinging nettle soup

(As always when foraging, leave plants that may be contaminated with chemical sprays from neighbouring fields or sprayed by passing dogs, or those growing alongside busy roads. Take no more than 10% of the plant to be sure the mother plant survives and provides food for wildlife.)

• 1 bag full of young nettle shoots/nettle tops
• 1 large onion
• 3 medium sized potatoes
• Between 1 ¾ pints to 2 ¼ pints of vegetable stock depending on how thick or watery you like your soup
• ½ to 1 clove of garlic, depending on taste (optional)
• 20g butter
• Sour cream or crème fraîche to serve, plus a small grating of nutmeg
• Salt & pepper to season

Melt the butter in a pan, add the onion and garlic until softened. Add the potatoes and sweat gently with the lid on until they start to soften. Add the nettles and when wilted add the stock. Bring to the boil, simmer gently for 10 mins. Blend the soup to a consistency you like and serve with a swirl of cream/crème fraîche and a sprinkling of nutmeg - yum!

Beech leaf noyau

I am always looking to try new recipes and am intrigued by beech leaf noyau, a herb liqueur. I first saw this mentioned in Richard Mabey's ‘Food for Free' and it cropped up again in the River Cottage Handbook No. 2. Friends have recommended it so I think it's about time I give it a try. This is tipped to be a good winter warmer and any goodies I can make for the colder months feel all the more satisfying.

I'm using this recipe from the River Cottage Handbook. Everything I've made from this has been gorgeous so fingers crossed!

To make 1 litre:

• 1 loosely packed bag of soft, young beech leaves (usually appearing towards the end of April)
• 500ml gin
• 300g granulated sugar
• Few tablespoons brandy

Fill a glass or earthenware jar with clean, young, soft beech leaves - about nine tenths full. Cover this with gin until the leaves are just covered. Seal and leave to steep in a dark place for 7-10 days.

Strain the liquid and for every 500ml of gin add 300g of sugar dissolved in 250ml of water. Add a few tablespoons of brandy and then bottle, with a couple of young beech leaves in each bottle when cold. Store in a cool, dark place and use within a couple of years.

Steph Comley

Stinging nettle photo (c) J Brew 2010 

Ramsons photo (c) Heather on her travels 2010

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